The big snake

My upbringing was rural and poor with some cultural influence of the Nama. The stories of snakes in my childhood always left me in awe.

Snakes are of some significance in the culture of the Khoi and San people of Southern Africa. Being nomadic people, they would cover vast areas of the sub-continent in their travels. Water was of course crucial to survival and they believed some rivers, fountains, dams, etc. to be guarded by a snake. They were fearful and respectful to snakes and would then have to please it to gain access to the drinking hole. This might have been achieved in several ways, most probably by singing to please the creature. Such non-aggressive behaviour would relax the snake, prompting it to make way for the visitors.

As a toddler, I used to gather wood with my grandmother in the rather dry, rocky plains around O’kiep, Namaqualand. One such hot midday, we noticed a spiral of dust accompanied by a huge noise, almost like the drown of a small truck ahead of us. We thought it to be a truck, but were puzzled to find that it travelled transversely to the road, and in fact, crossed it at some point ahead of us. We took no further notice, but as we walked, came to the point where this noise and dust crossed the road.

I still chill by the thought of what I saw. Being a gravel road, we could see the markings clearly; the fresh track of a snake about 30cm in diameter, carved deep into the sand. Where it left the road, the bush was divided violently in half as it forced its way through at speed. There was no track going around the big rocks either. It seems to have crossed them right over. Clearly one mean, bad-tampered bastard. I wanted to follow it badly, but fear paralysed me. We stepped over the track, careful not to touch it, and headed for home very quickly. Now the noise and dust could have been a normal whirl-wind, but that still leaves one very big snake. I know what I saw.

The flying snake, or the "Great Snake" as it is more commonly known amongst the people, has been an integral part of the Khoi and San tales and folklore for probably as long as they existed. Stories of regular sightings are common even today. Accounts vary from a big snake with a diamond on its forehead that shines at night, to one playing enjoyable music and changing into a seductive person of the opposite sex to lure its unfortunate prey. It seems to reside at watersides and mountains. It changes into a strong, destructive whirlwind when migrating over long distances, causing havoc on the way. People would throw salt over the roof of their dwellings if they notice it to be in the path of this harmful force. This would gain them some sort of protection. A demonic connotation to this snake is always apparent.

Sightings of the "Flying Snake" or "Big Snake" is a common occurence even today.

Like all legends and mythical tales, it probably started as a true story, and with generations of retelling, the truth got muddled with vivid imaginations. Or so I hope, with the great snake. When visiting Namaqualand, I would still take regular walks in the field, hoping see that track again, or even the devilish creature itself. I don't know if it will be a lucky or unfortunate encounter.

- originally published on www.woza.co.za (Woza was a brilliant, independent news website, which has sadly closed down due to funding difficulties).

11 February 2003